Friday 21 February 2014

Your Questions About Women's Platforms

Laura asks…

What kind of clothes did they wear during the Renaissance period?

Any info would be uesful thanks, oh and I'm not doing this for myself, I'm trying to help some friends out....

Our pick of the answers:

Renaissance costume evolved in Italy and was brought to the rest of Europe following the invasion of Italy in 1494 by Charles VIII of France. Why the rather simpler styles of Italy evolved independently from the rest of Europe is not clear but seems likely to have been a result of the warmer climate. The low-necked tunic and chemise for men and the similarly simple and low-necked gowns of the women (so-called Juliet gowns) had a very rapid if short-lived effect on the evolution of European costume in general. By the third decade of the 16th century, simplicity had vanished, but the vertical look of medieval costume had completely given way to the horizontal effects of Renaissance dress. At the same time as this rapid change in style was occurring, the craze for slashing burst upon Europe. Probably originating in south Germany, and surviving well into the 17th century, this fashion involved cutting slits in the outer fabric and pulling the lining fabric through the hole to create a decorative contrast. By 1490 Gothic dress in northern Europe had given way to the simpler styles of Renaissance Italy. Soon, however, unusual things happened to fashion that reflected new directions in art (1520-1600). Sumptuary laws were decreed that commoners should wear clothing of only one color. To get around this new unpopular law, both men and women began slashing their clothes. Essentially this meant cutting open the outer surfaces of their garments (doublets, sleeves, hose) to expose the contrasting color of the linings beneath. These linings would then be pulled through the cuts or "slashings" and puffed out to further emphasize the contrast. At first these slashings consisted of small, intricate patterns, but from 1600 to about 1650, slashings were longer and vertical in shape. Women's Gothic head dresses were replaced before 1500 by simple hoods. These hoods then became peaked, not unlike a playing card queen, which corresponded to the late Gothic or Tudor arch. Men's hats were broad, and some were trimmed with gems. Women's robes were expanding below the waistline: by 1550 hoops made of wire or wicker, held together with ribbons and tapes, were used for support. This was the beginning of a recurring fashion phenomenon. From about 1550 to 1600 the Renaissance was dominated by Spanish fashions. The costumes worn during this period were influenced more by geometric shapes than by the contours of the body. The human form was considered as two basic platforms--hips and shoulders. While clothing was constructed to fit the wearer, on the outside it was padded and shaped to show a completely different form. Dark silks and velvets were the most popular fabrics, for they were effective backdrops for precious stones and jewelry. During this period a person's wealth was gauged by the value of the gems sewn onto his clothing. In men's dress the short gown was replaced by a short cloak. The cloak was worn with trunk hose, or short breeches, padded with horsehair. Knitted stockings were developed at this time, and their close adherence to the legs contrasted with the padded body. The hoopskirt, or farthingale, reached its maximum width around 1600, when it assumed a cartwheel or drum-shaped appearance. Combined with ballooned sleeves and expanded ruffs or circular lace collars, it made a woman appear formidable or even unapproachable. With puffed-out trunk hose, balloon sleeves, padded doublets, and the same large ruff collars, men achieved a similar appearance. Atp

Lizzie asks…

Is it true that you can't wear high heels on a plane?

I have a short two hour flight from Sydney next week, and I've heard that you can't wear high heels on a plane. Is true? If so, can you go barefoot? We recently moved states and none of my non-heels have arrived yet. Actually Mitch, a flight FROM Sydney. I moved to sydney a week and a bit ago. Don't you know that?

Our pick of the answers:

This is a leftover from the '60s when women in spiked heels were causing floor damage to airliners, because the tiny contact area of the heels was imposing an unanticipated large stress on the floor. (a 120 lb woman putting her weight on a 0.15 square inch heel generates an 800 lb load on the floor) I am told (not wearing them myself ;) that today's high heels are larger in contact area, reducing the stress on the floor, and the floors have been strengthened to deal with the loads. Airplane carpets are not the cleanest of areas, and I would not go barefoot, and it is likely the airline will prohibit it, since there are a lot of ways to injure your foot under and around the seat. FYI, pax are required to remove ALL shoes before using an escape slide. EDIT - Ludwig, before you demonstrate your ignorance, perhaps you should spend two minutes doing some research: "The pointy heels tore carpets and scarred solid flooring; by the late 1950s airlines and some buildings had actually banned the heels." "A pair of platform stiletto-heeled shoes. First developed in the 1950s, the stiletto was a menace to women's bodies and the surfaces on which they walked." http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Modern-World-1946-1960/Stiletto-Heel.html In the spirit of full disclosure, may I suggest you share THAT with your "design shop", but likely they already know it if they are better informed than you. Your sincere apology for your inaccuracy and arrogance might be accepted by those who read your remarks..

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